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JAPAN
Matt's travel
journal -- 6.30.2002

Japan. A country about the size of
California, with over 80% of the land claimed by mountains and
volcanoes, and with about half the population of the USA. So if you
take 20% of California and cram into it half of all Americans, there you
have Japanese city life! Kind of sounds like playing 'how many people
can you fit in a VW Beetle,' doesn't it?!! People are so packed into
the less than 20% of the country flat enough for habitation that often
there's no room for parking ramps -- yesterday I saw what looked like a
normal tall and narrow office building, but the gutted-out inside of it
in fact it was kind of like the conveyor system at the dry cleaners with
the clean clothes circulating around at the push of a button: flip that
vertically and you have a conveyor parking lot, where you park in a slot
like a ferris wheel box, and at the push of a button your car is
circulated up the inside of the building! Then when you come back, they
just push the button and you watch all of the cars rotate down, over and
up until yours is there! Then there's no room to turn the car around to
get back into the street, so there's a turntable which spins your car
180 degrees to face the street!
Here are some other tidbits for your
reading pleasure (I hope!):
- Continuing on the strapped-for-space
theme, the cheapest hotels are called "capsule hotels" where for around
$35 a night, you can buy the privilege of sleeping in something quite
similar to a drawer in a morgue! Walls in the hotel hallway look like
honeycomb on a bees' nest, and one of those little holes is where you
get to sleep. The hole is about 2 feet tall, 2 feet wide, and 6 feet
deep, just barely big enough to fit a non-tall person and not much
more. Once you climb / squeeze in, though, some places are quite nice
with a TV and climate control system all built in! Nope, didn't stay in
one but loved seeing it.
- Moving on to other tidbits, it's fun
to get into a subway car and see big signs in English for "Virginia
Slims" cigarettes! Good ole Virginia has made its way to the other side
of the planet!
- Punctuality is such a critical custom
that people often will show up early for an appointment, wait outside,
and knock exactly when their watch says it's time. No such thing as
being fashionably late here -- being late is quite unfashionable.
Japanese people literally seem to have an internal alarm clock such
that in subway cars, nearly EVERYBODY sleeps, and their internal alarm
clock wakes them up when they're near their stop. I'm not simply
assuming this is the case; a few Japanese people explained it this way
to me! People sleep on the subways because work days are very long and
one-way commutes average 1 to 1.5 hours. Mine is one hour. I learned
the hard way that my internal alarm clock doesn't ring loudly enough to
wake me up in time for my stop!
- The Japanese way of going drinking
with your buddies at college is a lot of fun. Rather than go to bars,
you go to a place with long rectangular tables with a big group of your
friends, sit down, order lots of drinks, and order zillions of little
bowls of different foods even if you've already eaten dinner. Then
while drinking and picking at all of the tasty foods with your
chopsticks, you proceed to watch everybody's faces turn bright red very
quickly and the general noise level go through the roof. Then after a
while it turns into musical chairs, with people swapping seats to mix up
the conversation groups. It's very fun and much better than drinking
and eating nothing or just potato chips! Also, as a polite custom
people always fill your glass; you hardly ever pour your own -- for if
you do it can mean that you're an alcoholic!
- It's really easy to eat in Japan even
if you don't speak or read the language, because most restaurants have
display windows with plastic life-size versions of the dishes they
serve! They look incredibly real, and you can just point to what looks
good, and the meal you're served looks EXACTLY like what was in the
display window!
- The most popular
dating activity is to go to Tokyo Disneyland! It's an exact replica
of the one in California.
- Japan is incredibly
safe. People carry around hundreds of dollars worth of yen all the
time, and since it's safe to do that they rarely use credit cards. Some
(including me) leave their bags unlocked at train stations to go grab a
bite to eat or stroll around the area while waiting for the next train.
Once in extremely busy Tokyo Train Station I saw a man leave a full
Tiffany's bag outside a bathroom completely unattended while he went in
to do his business. No problem! It's quite safe for both men and women
to walk around at night, though if you're female and in the bar district
a completely wasted company man might howl at you before he proceeds to
take a leak on a wall somewhere or puke on the sidewalk. A LOT of
drinking goes on. I participated in that for my first two months here,
and with all the eating that goes on while drinking I was sure I would
get fat but instead I think I might have lost weight. I don't quite
understand it -- there is fat in the diet here (for example: a Japanese
favorite is chicken skin shish kebob -- yuck!) but there aren't many fat
people outside of the Sumo wrestling ring. In fact, perhaps 15% of the
people look to me like they're anorexic. In France, food there is
incredibly rich what with heavy sauces and whatnot, but there are
relatively few overweight people in France as well. What's in American
food that there are more weight-challenged people? Someone told me that
it may have to do with preservatives?
- With society being so safe and crime
comparatively so low, it's no wonder that in many ways Japanese
exclude/isolate foreigners, considering that like most places in the
world the news about foreign countries mostly centers on heinous
crimes. It's nearly impossible for a foreigner to become a Japanese
citizen. Nearly all 3rd-generation people of Korean descent, whose
grandparents were forced to do hard labor in Japan before and during
World War II, and who were born in Japan, raised in Japan, and know no
home except Japan, are not Japanese citizens. And I think if you're not
a citizen, you can't vote.
- Life as an employee in a big Japanese
company, by American terms, sucks. Lifetime employment is shrinking but
still is the custom in the vast majority of big companies, and feeling
devoted and loyal to the company for such a gift of security, employees
will do anything for the company. Typically you cannot choose what type
of job you will do, what product line, what division, or what location.
When you are hired in right out of college, you don't know where you'll
end up -- it's all staged as a surprise. For an example I know a very
smart girl who has a degree in law; and her first 3-year assignment is
to do accounting. The company circulates you around many different
departments, once every two or three years, to give you a wide range of
experience and ultimately turn you into a general manager. Along the
way you have no choice; you do what and go where you're told. Quite
often is the case that you have to leave your family behind and go work
in a place far far away, only to return home to your spouse and kids on
an occasional weekend. Each big company location has one or more
dormitories where you get a room to live in, far from home. (In fact
I'm living on one of those dorms right now!) There's not much you can
do about it; quitting is high-risk because the vast majority of
reputable Japanese companies hire fresh college grads and no one else.
It's normal life here and I think not a big deal because that's what
everybody is accustomed to, that's what the life experience is like.
But seen from a pair of Western eyes, uh, well, I don't think I'll go to
work for a Japanese company after graduation.
- Back to fun stuff, outside Tokyo
there's an INDOOR ski slope! It's a huge structure sloped for skiing,
and inside, year round, it makes snow! It's parking lot is packed on
weekends, so is Disneyland's; and for that matter most Japanese
restaurants and stores are very busy, too. You would never know that
the economy has been stuck in an outhouse for the past decade. I don't
understand this one!
- Finally, my personal favorite: When
I traveled in China, a man on a train kindly informed me that I'm not
tall. He was being perfectly cordial, but for some reason felt obliged
to inform me of my shortness relative to other Westerners. Well, when
drinking in a restaurant a person I just met, right after our first
minute of conversation, kindly informed me that I have a big nose. I
was shocked to hear that! Later I learned that in Japan, if you're a
guy, a big nose means you've "got it where it counts!"
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